{"id":16469,"date":"2016-06-08T06:26:24","date_gmt":"2016-06-08T11:26:24","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/?p=16469"},"modified":"2016-06-29T09:03:18","modified_gmt":"2016-06-29T14:03:18","slug":"dyeing-reed-101-part-iii","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/index.php\/2016\/06\/08\/dyeing-reed-101-part-iii\/","title":{"rendered":"Dyeing Reed 101 &#8211; Part III"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/100_63521.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft wp-image-15359 \" src=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/100_63521-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"100_6352\" width=\"165\" height=\"110\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/100_63521-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/100_63521-1030x686.jpg 1030w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/100_63521-1500x999.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/100_63521-705x470.jpg 705w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/100_63521-450x300.jpg 450w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 165px) 100vw, 165px\" \/><\/a>This post will wrap up my Dyeing Reed 101 series&#8230;<strong>\u00a0\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Today I am writing about the\u00a0three\u00a0types of dyes that work on reed and wood: direct, reactive and natural. Part I and II\u00a0provided background for dyeing. If you haven&#8217;t read them you may find it helpful to start there. \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/index.php\/2016\/05\/26\/dyeing-reed-101-part-i\/\" target=\"_blank\">Dyeing Reed -Part I<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/index.php\/2016\/06\/01\/dyeing-reed-101-part-ii\/\" target=\"_blank\">Dyeing Reed Part II<\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong><!--more-->REACTIVE DYES<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Procion fiber reactive dyes work well on\u00a0reed. They are very color fast and rarely bleed, and while reactive dyes do require some temperature control, they don&#8217;t require high\u00a0temperatures. You can buy Fiber Reactive Procion Dyes\u00a0from Dharma\u00a0Trading Company,\u00a0ProChemical and Dye, and Jacquard; my preference is Pro MX\u00ae from ProChemical and Dye.<\/p>\n<p>While soak times, temperatures and amounts of dye powder, salt and soda ash will vary according to dye manufacturer, here is the basic procedure for using\u00a0a fiber reactive dye:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>In a large\u00a0pot (stainless steel, enamel or glass), add\u00a0enough water [room <a href=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/procion-dye.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright wp-image-16582 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/procion-dye.jpg\" alt=\"procion dye\" width=\"248\" height=\"248\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/procion-dye.jpg 248w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/procion-dye-80x80.jpg 80w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/procion-dye-36x36.jpg 36w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/procion-dye-180x180.jpg 180w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/procion-dye-120x120.jpg 120w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 248px) 100vw, 248px\" \/><\/a>temperature\u00a0(75\u00b0F &#8211; 95\u00b0F)] to\u00a0cover\u00a0reed and allow free movement.\u00a0Soak reed for 10 &#8211; 30 minutes, then remove reed. Add new room temperature water to pot.<\/li>\n<li>Dissolve dye in room temperature water. Add to water.<\/li>\n<li>Dissolve salt in hot (120\u00b0F &#8211;\u00a0140\u00b0F) water. Add to dye bath.<\/li>\n<li>Put the material into the dye bath and agitate (stir) frequently. Leave reed in dye bath\u00a01 &#8211; 3 hours.<\/li>\n<li>Dissolve soda ash in hot (120\u00b0F &#8211;\u00a0140\u00b0F) water and add to dye bath\u00a0slowly.<\/li>\n<li>Leave in dye bath for up to 2-12 more hours.<\/li>\n<li>Rinse under cold running water to remove excess dye and allow to dry.<\/li>\n<li>Optional: Make a fixative bath (see <a href=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/index.php\/2016\/06\/01\/dyeing-reed-101-part-ii\/\" target=\"_blank\">Dyeing Reed 101 &#8211; Part II<\/a>)\u00a0and soak reed for 20- 30 minutes<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>I like the color results of using a reactive dye, however, there are a few things I dislike: 1) the reed sits in the water for a <em>long<\/em> time, compromising reed quality. 2) I am not sure how to dispose of the leftover\u00a0chemical &#8216;soup&#8217;. Pro Chemical and Dye would not say it was safe for septic systems and their safety sheets are a little scary.<\/p>\n<p>For those of you who save dye &#8211; reactive dye is only good for one use.<\/p>\n<p><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/bloodroot.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft wp-image-16583 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/bloodroot-300x267.jpg\" alt=\"bloodroot\" width=\"300\" height=\"267\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/bloodroot-300x267.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/bloodroot-80x71.jpg 80w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/bloodroot-450x400.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/bloodroot.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>NATURAL DYES<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Onion skins, spider wort, marigolds, blood root, bark, nuts even insects can provide a natural dye. Some of these dyes are very colorfast, others fade quickly. Some need to be gathered and dried, others can be used fresh. Just because a dye has a natural source does not mean it is non toxic, some natural dyes are very deadly.<\/p>\n<p>Natural dyes are diverse, the best thing you can do is find a good book that will tell you which plants to collect, how to collect them, what colors they make and the recipes to use. Use the recipe for cotton or linen, but since reed does not dye easily, be sure to mordant reed before dying (see <a href=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/index.php\/2016\/06\/01\/dyeing-reed-101-part-ii\/\" target=\"_blank\">Dyeing Reed 101 &#8211; Part II<\/a>)<\/p>\n<p>These are two of my favorites books: <a id=\"static_txt_preview\" href=\"http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/gp\/offer-listing\/1617691755\/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=1617691755&amp;linkCode=am2&amp;tag=thebasktteach-20&amp;linkId=BZQRQXFATXAVYK42\" target=\"_blank\">The Modern Natural Dyer<\/a>\u00a0by Kristine Vejar and <a id=\"static_txt_preview\" href=\"http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/gp\/offer-listing\/0823058794\/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=0823058794&amp;linkCode=am2&amp;tag=thebasktteach-20&amp;linkId=YJZ3FDG3MBSXZQJI\" target=\"_blank\">Wild Color: The Complete Guide to Making and Using Natural Dyes<\/a>\u00a0by Jenny Dean\u00a0(If you are interested click on the\u00a0title\u00a0to view the book in Amazon.)<\/p>\n<p><strong>DIRECT DYES\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Basket Tree Dye is a direct dye which is specially formulated for reed. Diazol\u00ae and Pro Chemical and Dye\u00ae \u00a0make direct dyes. \u00a0Direct dyes tend to not be very colorfast, however adding\u00a0a surfactant\u00a0and a dye fixative improve color fastness. Color depth is achieved by using high temperatures and leaving the fiber in the dye vat for a long time.<\/p>\n<p>Again, while soak times, temperatures and amounts of dye powder, salt and surfacant and fixative\u00a0will vary according to dye manufacturer, here is the basic procedure for using\u00a0a direct\u00a0dye:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Use a stainless steel or enamel\u00a0pot. Add \u00a0warm water (enough to immerse\u00a0reed).<\/li>\n<li>Add surfactant.<\/li>\n<li>Add dye powder.<a href=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/idye.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-16551 size-medium alignright\" src=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/idye-265x300.jpg\" alt=\"iDyeColorChart-rev708\" width=\"265\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/idye-265x300.jpg 265w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/idye-71x80.jpg 71w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/idye-450x510.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/idye.jpg 488w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 265px) 100vw, 265px\" \/><\/a><\/li>\n<li>Heat to boiling.<\/li>\n<li>Add reed.<\/li>\n<li>Return to boil<\/li>\n<li>Add salt. Let reed soak in dye bath for 20-30 minutes.<\/li>\n<li>Remove reed\u00a0and\u00a0rinse in cold water.<\/li>\n<li>Make a new bath with warm water and fixative, soak reed for 20 &#8211; 30 minutes. Remove reed, dry completely.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>ALL PURPOSE DYES<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>An all purpose dye is a mixture of two types of dyes: acid dyes for animal or protein fibers and direct dye for plant or cellulose fibers. When used on reed,\u00a0the direct dye adheres to the fiber and leaves the acid dye unused. Some professionals say that the\u00a0acid dye in an\u00a0all purpose dye may make reed\u00a0brighter initially, but it does not add colorfastness.<\/p>\n<p>The procedure for using an all purpose dye is the same as a direct dye (above), however almost all purpose dye formulas include surfactants and salt, so it is not necessary to add them.<\/p>\n<p>Rit\u00ae, DEKA L\u00ae Hot Water Dyes, and Jacquard\u00ae iDye are all purpose dyes that will work with reed. \u00a0Rit\u00ae \u00a0is the most commonly used all purpose dye. I have used a lot of dyes, but I keep coming back to Rit\u00ae.\u00a0(Click <a href=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/index.php\/2015\/09\/02\/mustard\/\" target=\"_blank\">here <\/a>to read the article I wrote about <em>why<\/em> I use Rit\u00ae.)<a href=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/100_6150.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-15073 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/100_6150-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"100_6150\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/100_6150-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/100_6150-1030x773.jpg 1030w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/100_6150-1500x1125.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/100_6150-705x529.jpg 705w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/100_6150-450x338.jpg 450w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Direct dyes and all purpose dyes can be saved (refrigerate to discourage mold growth) and reused, however the dye\u00a0becomes less effective with each use. Cold dye can be used\u00a0for an over dye on a basket, but to get lasting color you must reheat the dye before using. As the dye is used up it provides a paler color;\u00a0direct dye has a life, once the dye is spent, it is best discarded.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p>Personally, I have good results dyeing reed with Rit\u00ae using\u00a0my method of heat and time. The well water I use has been softened\u00a0and\u00a0has a slightly elevated pH, so I don&#8217;t add any chemicals or even salt. To read more about how I dye reed, read my post, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/index.php\/2015\/09\/22\/dying-my-way\/\" target=\"_blank\">Dyeing &#8211; my way<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/100_6212.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-15223 size-medium alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/100_6212-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"The Dyed Corner\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/100_6212-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/100_6212-1030x773.jpg 1030w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/100_6212-1500x1125.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/100_6212-705x529.jpg 705w, https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/100_6212-450x338.jpg 450w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>Dyeing Reed 101 &#8211; complete!<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Okay &#8211; so that was a lot of information! I hope that you have found these posts helpful.<\/p>\n<p>If you missed the other posts you can find them here<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/index.php\/2016\/05\/26\/dyeing-reed-101-part-i\/\" target=\"_blank\">Dyeing Reed 101 &#8211; Part I <\/a>\u00a0and <a href=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/index.php\/2016\/06\/01\/dyeing-reed-101-part-ii\/\" target=\"_blank\">Dyeing Reed 101 &#8211; Part II<\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/signiture.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright wp-image-15882 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/signiture.png\" alt=\"~Annetta K\" width=\"168\" height=\"56\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>This post will wrap up my Dyeing Reed 101 series&#8230;\u00a0\u00a0 Today I am writing about the\u00a0three\u00a0types of dyes that work on reed and wood: direct, reactive and natural. Part I and II\u00a0provided background for dyeing. If you haven&#8217;t read them you may find it helpful to start there. \u00a0Dyeing Reed -Part I\u00a0and\u00a0Dyeing Reed Part II<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[139,173],"tags":[397,398,394,399,395,396],"class_list":["post-16469","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-tutorials","category-resources","tag-dyed-reed","tag-dyed-reed-101","tag-mordant-reed","tag-mordanted-reed","tag-natural-dyes","tag-reactive-dyes"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v25.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Dyeing Reed 101 - Part III &#8902; PrairieWood Basketry<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/index.php\/2016\/06\/08\/dyeing-reed-101-part-iii\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Dyeing Reed 101 - Part III &#8902; PrairieWood Basketry\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"This post will wrap up my Dyeing Reed 101 series&#8230;\u00a0\u00a0 Today I am writing about the\u00a0three\u00a0types of dyes that work on reed and wood: direct, reactive and natural. Part I and II\u00a0provided background for dyeing. If you haven&#8217;t read them you may find it helpful to start there. \u00a0Dyeing Reed -Part I\u00a0and\u00a0Dyeing Reed Part II\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/index.php\/2016\/06\/08\/dyeing-reed-101-part-iii\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"PrairieWood Basketry\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/basketteacher\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2016-06-08T11:26:24+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2016-06-29T14:03:18+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"http:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/100_63521-300x200.jpg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Annetta K\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Annetta K\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"5 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/index.php\/2016\/06\/08\/dyeing-reed-101-part-iii\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/index.php\/2016\/06\/08\/dyeing-reed-101-part-iii\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Annetta K\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.prairiewoodbasketry.com\/#\/schema\/person\/de296e1850919ee310869f49cd8f0f52\"},\"headline\":\"Dyeing Reed 101 &#8211; 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